It located under the dashboard on the driver’s side.Ģ008-2010: Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) Control Unit Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) Unit.A/C Control Panel or Climate Control Panel.Daytime Running Lights Control Unit (2008-2010).Never replace a broken fuse with anything other than a new fuse.If you do not have a replacement fuse with the proper rating for the circuit, install one with a lower rating. Replacing a fuse with one that has a higher rating greatly increases the chances of damaging the electrical system.Leave the blown fuse in that circuit and have your car checked by a qualified technician. If the replacement fuse of the same rating blows in a short time, there is probably a serious electrical problem in your car.Replace the fuse with one of the correct rating as soon as you can. If you replace the blown fuse with a spare fuse that has a lower rating, it might blow out again. Make sure you can do without that circuit temporarily (such as the accessory socket or radio). If you cannot drive the car without fixing the problem, and you do not have a spare fuse, take a fuse of the same rating or a lower rating from one of the other circuits. If it is burned, replace it with one of the spare fuses of the same rating or lower. Look for a burned wire inside the fuse.Check the smaller fuses in the under-hood fuse box and all the fuses in the interior fuse boxes by pulling out each fuse with the fuse puller provided in the primary under-hood fuse box. Removing these fuses requires a Phillips-head screwdriver. Check each of the large fuses in the primary under-hood fuse box by looking through the top at the wire inside.Make sure the headlights and all other accessories are off. Replace any blown fuses, and check if the device works. Check those fuses first, but check all the fuses before deciding that a blown fuse is the cause. The diagram for the interior driver’s side fuse box is on the kick panel below the fuse box. Determine from the chart, or the diagram on the fuse box lid, which fuse or fuses control that device. Sometimes the mechanism gets stuck inside, and the few taps can free it and give you that one final crank you need to get it home.If something electrical in your vehicle stops working, the first thing you should check for is a blown fuse. If you’re ever stranded with a failed starter, give the starter a few little taps with a small hammer while someone cranks the ignition. Once in awhile, as I said before, you might get lucky and get a few more cranks out of it. Once a starter fails, it usually gives no warning. Be prepared to buy a new one, cause you might have to. You might have a few more licks left on that starter, but that might be all. Your starter may also be on the brink of failing too. It’s probably mounted directly to the body of the van. If that doesn’t work, clean your ground wire from the battery. Clean those contact points with a wire brush or sandpaper. You may have built up dirt, or corrosion/rust on the starters terminals, which might be blocking contact. From what you said, the problem seems to come and go, so I would start by DISCONNECTING THE NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLE FIRST!! Then, checking the GROUND (green) connection on your starter, as well as the other wires connected to it. I agree with the others, it’s likely a starter issue.
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